The solution to the difficult problem of how to choose a tie for a suit and shirt cannot always be obtained by relying on your own taste. It turns out that there are certain rules on how to choose a tie for contrast or complementarity, but they only work if the shirt is a neutral color. This raises another question — how to choose a tie, if two pieces of clothing are combined, but the suit and accessories do not fit into the rule of three colors: the color scheme of a male image can only consist of variations of three shades, the fourth, which is not included in this spectrum, is no longer allowed.
General selection rules
The correct sequence, which does not get tired of reminding on fashion sites from a large piece of clothing to the smallest. Therefore, the purchase of an accessory in a men’s store should start with the question of how to choose a tie. When buying the option you like, you need to mentally imagine how it will look with the suits that are already in the wardrobe.
- Black is usually marketed as versatile, and it really suits a variety of suits and shirts in five basic shades — blue, blue, white and beige. Will look spectacular on red, purple, orange, yellow and pink.
- The second common advice on how to choose a tie is that its color should certainly be lighter than a shirt. But this recommendation has not worked for a long time, since fashion trends clearly demonstrate light accessories on a dark background and dominant tricolors in a tie row.
- In this version, how to choose a tie — the light stripe merges with the fabric under the jacket, the medium one in saturation is complementary, but darker, and the contrasting one dominates and is combined with the rest, skillfully selected details — a boutonniere, a handkerchief, a watch strap, a belt and shoes.
The table on how to choose a tie for a suit and shirt was compiled by authors who forget about the basic rules: the correspondence of the most noticeable (albeit small in size) attribute to the occasion. There are ties that are inappropriate at work, and there are ties that are unsuitable for a special occasion or a club party.
Matching a tie to a suit
The correct combination of a tie and a suit is selected not only for complementarity or contrast, but also for style, tailoring, fabric texture. All of the tips in the glamor editions are focused on the 4 traditional shades of men’s business or holiday set — black, white, brown and blue. But, besides this, there are other options — with a pattern or a winning texture. Each of them has its own, fixed rules — a tie made of natural fabric is put on a linen suit, a summer suit made of cotton, embroidered or glossy will not fit, you cannot wear a striped, floral and leafy accessory to a checkered outfit of any format.
3 monochromatic things:
2 plain clothes, 1 with a pattern:
1 single color item, 2 with a pattern:
The unspoken rules of good manners determine the possibility of combining two elements with a pattern, but the third is certainly left monochromatic.
Modern fashion admits a gray tie to a gray suit, even of the same tone, but, in order to avoid a boring look, bright colors are recommended for it. A man should remember that gray is as versatile as black, but it is considered unprofitable in any shade. Therefore, a gray suit requires dominant, brightly colored accessories — they give it a variable meaning, if chosen correctly. A burgundy tie is not the only, albeit generally accepted option. Golden yellow, raspberry pink, bright green, red tie will be in harmony with a steel, pearl, light or dark gray outfit, provided that the shirt matches the intended purpose.
When choosing which tie to go with a black suit, you can only focus on accessories. The only thing that absolutely doesn’t make sense is black on black. All other colors of the rainbow will be appropriate if they are secured with accessories.
|Gray||white light blue||any color|
|Dark Grey||white, light pink||red black|
|Dark blue||white||burgundy, striped (white, red or blue)|
|Black||white||silver gray, red black|
|Dark brown||white, beige, light pink||green-brown stripes, red-black|
|Light brown||white, light pink, light brown||green, burgundy|
|Sand||light blue pink||dark blue motley|
|dark green||ivory||striped (brown, red or green)|
It is easiest in this regard for men of dominant appearance — they can easily determine which color is suitable for natural data. Sometimes a tie can shade the color of the eyes, the characteristic features of the face, and emphasize the color of the hair. An aggressive purple tie is hardly suitable for those who create an attractive look without initial prerequisites — it turns blondes and redheads pale, and gives brunettes a dull look. But if you put it on with a lilac or pink suit and a shirt of a suitable pastel-light shade, its negative properties are leveled, the look will be attractive and solid.
Only a limited range of ties is suitable for a certain style of suit, so fashion in this respect is a very relative concept. The male two or three will dictate the selection rules themselves in each specific case, if a person already knows about them:
- narrow — contraindicated for men of dense build, their limit for the narrowness of the tie end ends at 6 cm;
- anything less than this limit is more suitable for youth options — tapered, with short sleeves, fastened with 1-2 buttons;
- satin and silk are worn only for evening or special occasions;
- dense knitted, woolen or tweed is appropriate with a warm winter suit with lining or insulation;
- a wide tie should not exceed the size of a jacket lapel;
- double with straight ends will suit a casual-style suit (checkered, with a speckled or striped pattern), but not with a classic solid color.
For a denim or linen jacket in combination with blue or black jeans, modern fashion allows the use of a classic attribute invented in Germany. However, he should not repeat the usual color combinations and shapes — most often in this case, a checkered shirt with a narrow accessory tied with a careless knot is recommended, referring to an extravagant, and not the usual color wheel.
Choosing a tie for a shirt
It is allowed if it is worn without a suit, but if the men’s business uniform is selected as a set, the whole triad must be in strict accordance. A black tie will suit any shirt — fashion designers recommend wearing a white and black version, if there are no guesses about the possibilities of using other colors in difficult life circumstances or non-trivial situations that have not been encountered before.
The blue suit, according to some homebrew experts, is in harmony with yellow and green, but these are flashy combinations that are not highly recommended by the rules of good form. A solid and respectable person with a blue suit will wear a white and blue scale with a red tie, and if such a combination seems too bold — burgundy or dark with a strip from the red spectrum. In this case, it is recommended to pay attention to politicians — a red tie color speaks of the seriousness of the moment or the importance of negotiations, but a black suit is too formal, so blue is chosen. For less important, everyday meetings, a strip or burgundy is worn under a white or blue shirt.
The most common color combinations are:
- A white shirt with a black tie is a trivial but coveted option that you can wear without hesitation. With a big stretch, it will fit a blue suit, it will easily fit into other classic frames, but it will be inappropriate in a brown frame: the black color will stand out against the general background and it will be unpleasant to cut the eye.
- A pleasant combination of tie and shirt — burgundy and blue, the dominant tricolor — red-white-blue, brown with green, yellow and olive.
- Any tie can be worn with a black shirt. However, when buying a classic black tie, do not forget that this is a kind of uniform for small office clerks, sellers in expensive boutiques and funeral home workers. If the suit, moreover, is black, undesirable associations may arise in outsiders.
- A black shirt with a black tie can be used to create a brutal macho look, but not as an option for a business style, unless they differ in shade.
- A tie for a pink shirt is purple, lilac, lilac and dark blue. The latter — provided that there are blotches on it that are close to the color spectrum of the main attribute. Pink is combined with white and light gray, so you can do the opposite — put on an extravagant tone, deciding which tie will go with a blue shirt.
- Beige and blue are traditional tones of menswear that harmonize well with each other. To be convinced of this, it is enough to look at combinations on cotton products from an expensive manufacturer. A tie to a blue shirt can be gold or orange, but not canary.
- However, a tie for a blue shirt is recommended in red, burgundy or in a bright strip, in which there is certainly a blue or blue tint. A plain-colored dark gray looks trivial, but in a thin burgundy cage — it will revive and fill with meaning, make the expected fashionable image.
- It is usually recommended to wear a dark tie for a burgundy shirt — blue, charcoal, but this year’s fashion trends allow for gray, blue (in the color of the suit) or white. A monochromatic burgundy makes it easy to use a floral print or small peas, provided that some part of the pattern matches the main background on which the accessory is located.
When choosing two details of a business, ceremonial or smart man’s appearance, it is not enough to use only the color wheel. The three rules — contrast, complementarity, or strict matching to tone — don’t always work. For example, there are such nuances as shade, tissue harmonization, the appearance of a particular person, the so-called tone temperature. After all, each color in the online store has only one definition, while it covers a wide segment of the color spectrum. Red, pink and purple are especially insidious in this regard.
Choosing the right tie length
The average parameter is 150 cm from end to end of the product, but this is a common mistake of people who rarely wear ties. A simple way to check for compliance is to attach the narrow end to the neck, then the wide one should not hang below the knees. But this is a very rough method. There is a correspondence table in which it is recommended to buy accessories of variable length for different heights — up to 175 cm — 145 cm, up to 185 — 150 cm, above this parameter you need to look for a non-standard attribute — 155-165 cm long.
Men below average height are sure that extra centimeters can be leveled by tying a knot of a certain complexity. But this does not quite correspond to the real state of affairs. In expensive men’s fashion stores, there are strictly observed parameters:
- under a simple knot — 150-154 cm;
- under complex — up to 170 cm;
- there is also 180 cm — for tying knots of special complexity;
- narrow and knitted, usually of standard length (145-155 cm).
A shirt worn under a three-piece is a great way to disguise an unfortunate length. Ideally, the end of the accessory should not hang below the belt buckle. A vest that covers the waistband of your trousers is a great way to disguise a flaw in your choice, if, as expected, it hides both the belt and the garment with cufflinks.
Choice of tie material
The traditional fabric in sewing this attribute of menswear is silk, natural or artificial. It has its own advantages — drape, ability to maintain color and shape. However, this season also knitted (hand-made) are in demand, cashmere, woolen, poplin, satin, microfiber, stretch can be found on sale. Dense, winter fabric obliges not only to wear in the cold season, but also to the selection of an appropriate suit. The accessory made of thick synthetic silk with lining should not be used with cotton or linen summer suits.
The standard distance between the edges is no more than 12 cm, although in recent years this standard has been reduced to 8-10. There are no strong recommendations and restrictions, much depends on the chosen style, age, height and physique.
In different cases, the use of an important attribute from 3 to 12 cm is allowed. But the narrow one is considered an accessory to the youth style, fitted, extravagant, bold wardrobe decisions. The business look is well complemented by a width of 6-10 cm.
Typical and most noticeable mistakes
Despite the prevalence of publications on the topic of how to choose the right tie, errors in the choice are allowed not only by those for whom they are published, but also by the authors of such reasoning. No color wheel, compatibility table or seasonal fashion will tell you how to choose the right tie, if a person does not take into account his individual data, the complementarity of the texture and pattern, the situation for which the triad is selected.
Males do not always have the skill of combinations, so the problem of how to choose a tie for a man is often solved by women. They are better at making variations with colors, fabrics and sizes, especially if there is time, money and a sense of proportion.